Guadalajara’s Gifts to the World
The edible, sensual and spiritual pleasures of Guadalajara (seven places to eat, drink and stay + cultural highlights)
Starting in 2010, I’ve been writing about Guadalajara since my first visit with the great Fortaleza tequila when it was a small cult brand and, as founder/distiller Guillermo Sauza tells me, I was one of the first people writing about them. Every time I’m consulting in or on a press trip in the Highlands or Lowlands of Tequila, I get at least a night or two in GDL… and I’ve been smitten with it as the underrated second biggest city in Mexico. Its restaurants, bars, culture and people is the “real” Mexico on so many levels. I’ve been impressed by its steady growth in range and depth over the 15 years I’ve been visiting and working at distilleries where I consult in Arandas.
I returned to GDL for the 12th anniversary of one of my all-time favorite GDL restaurants, Alcalde, which just moved to number 51 in the World’s 50 Restaurants. I loved celebrating with delightful chef Francisco "Paco" Ruano in Torino, Italy, during the 50 Best awards in June 2025, as I did January 2025 at Alcalde for its 12th, an epic night of mariachis and a collaboration menu with Noma co-founder and chef Michelin-starred Ilis in NYC, Mads Refslund (more on his restaurant coming soon).
Having been to GDL many times — often staying at a dear distiller friend’s gorgeous old 1800s home in GDL’s Centro Histórico (historic center) — I’ve been privileged to get to know it better over the years. Below are recent favorites, both high and low, food to cocktails, as well as cultural loves that have kept me going in this most Mexican of all Mexico cities.